RTW Leg 103

RTW Leg 103
Afternoon.
FXMK-FAPE 393 nm.
Mokhotlong-Port Elizabeth. Orange River, Drakenberg Range
ETE: 2.5 Hours.
Non-Terminal Departure (Terrain NOTAMS) and Terminal Arrival

After lunch, we head over the main portion of Lesotho, toward the capital Maseru, and then south to the Indian Ocean.

Katse Dam spans valley between two mountains and rises 185 meters..

The highlands of Lesotho are the watershed for most of the large rivers flowing through South Africa. A huge Highlands Water Project is concerned with building a series of dams along the mighty Orange River to export water and hydroelectricity to South Africa. The project started in earnest in the 1990s and now the first results are starting to appear. The massive dam at Katse (over which we fly) floods valleys for 45 km. The dam wall is 185 meters, the highest in Africa, and spans the valley between two mountains.

This source of both energy and water will prove crucial for the continued economic development of South Africa's Gauteng province as well as provide an economic boost for Lesotho's fortunes. When completed, it will dam the headwaters of the Orange River in the deep valleys of the Lesotho highlands, provide vast amounts of electricity for the country, making Lesotho virtually self-sufficient in electricity, which formerly was imported exclusively from South Africa. In addition, the system will generate income from water exported to South Africa. The hydroelectric power stations should make Lesotho virtually self-sufficient in electricity, which formerly was imported exclusively from South Africa.

Lesothons clad in traditional blankets using
donkey transport.

Transportation in Lesotho remains rudimentary. A main road runs along the western and southern boundary, and a mountain road from Maseru reaches into the interior. These two main arteries are served by short-distance feeder roads. The country's native Basotho ponies and donkeys and oxen are common and reliable means of transport in the rural areas. Villages in the mountains are served by bridle paths. Railways are nonexistent, except for a short line that links the capital to the South African rail network. Light aircraft are used extensively for passengers and for transporting mail and freight to the interior. An international airport opened south of Maseru in 1986.

Just 35 km before Maseru, we pass Roma a university town in a scenic valley accessed through impressive gorges. To the north is the Ha Baroana gallery of Bushmen paintings which tell stories of past lives in these hills.

Crossing the border, we continue over descending hills toward the Indian Ocean toward East London. Just before getting there, we turn west at Bisho. The recently built capital of a black homeland (an artifice of apartheid), Bisho now serves as capital of the Eastern Cape, one of the nine provinces of the new South Africa. Bisho is the Xhosa word for Buffalo, the name of the river that runs through this town. The inhabitants are mainly from the Xhosa and Mfengu tribes. The Xhosa migrated to this area between 1660 and 1670 and in the early 18th century the Xhosa were involved in fierce skirmishes with the encroaching white settlers. Their presence (and British pressure) helped force the Afrikaners to undertake The Great Trek across the Orange and onto the Highveld to form the Orange Free State and the Transvaal.

Finally, we reach Port Elizabeth. This major sea port and tourist destination is set along the beautiful shores of Algoa Bay and the Indian Ocean. The city is the second largest city in terms of area and the fifth largest in terms of population in South Africa (1.1 million). The city was one of the first British outposts and still evinces its early Victorian roots. It was the completion of the Kimberley Railroad (1873) that spurred development of the port, which at times handles imports for Zambia and Zimbabwe and exports manganese and iron ore, wool, coal, and citrus fruit. Its deepwater harbor is enclosed by a breakwater. Excellent communications, cheap power, and water combine to create one of the country's busiest manufacturing centers, mainly concerned with the automotive industry.

PE's boosters refer to it as the Friendly City. Temperatures are moderate all year round with rain scattered throughout the year. The summers are warm with a very temperate humidity level. Winters are mild and pleasant and water sports, even surfing, boardsailing and diving, are practiced year-round. The city climbs the foot of a 200- to 300-foot (60- to 90-meter) plateau and occupies both banks of the small Baakens River. The residential area is on flat tableland, with an industrial sector at the north end. Port Elizabeth is dotted with parks, notably St. George's Park, which is home to the world famous Port Elizabeth Cricket Club, the oldest Bowling Green in South Africa and Settlers' Park Nature Reserve, and is known for its oceanarium.

Please note that these RTW Narratives are produced using materials from various sites, in print and on the web. They are intended for the private use of the RTW Buzz pilots and are not meant for public dissemination.

Known as the "Mountain Kingdom", Lesotho is a small country entirely surrounded by South Africa. It sits on a high plateau, with a dramatic escarpment forming its northeast border. This escarpment forms the Drakensberg (Dragon Mountains). From over 3000 meters in the Lesotho highlands, the land drops away to less than 1000 meters in the South Africa plains. This is arguably the most beautiful and dramatic range of mountains in this part of the world. ...

Our next stop was Moteng Lodge. It is located on the northern end of the Drakensberg, just west of Moteng Pass. Just outside the lodge stood Taba Huulow. It towered 1000 meters above us and had a gentle shoulder that rolled like a verdant green carpet right down to the lodge.

The day was warm with a few clouds. With water and food for the day, we set out to explore the surrounding Lesotho villages and head up Taba Huulow for some views over the valley.

We were soon surrounded by a pack of a dozen girls aged 6 to 12. They were dressed in rags and some were without blouses. They ran along side of us and showed us the short cuts up the mountain. They sang some great polyphonic songs. They all sang in key and with good rhythm.

About half way up we met a meek herd boy. He seemed very shy and didn't say a word. He let Helene take a few pictures and seemed pretty friendly. At Home

Most herd boys are rented out by their families as early as the age of 5. Around 15 the payment goes directly to them, but they now have no skills for any other occupation and end up roaming the hills till the day they die. Many of the villagers are a bit spooked by these guys and half the prison population in Lesotho is made up of herders.

This round rock hut has a timber and thatch roof. In the center was a small fire ring. On either side were sleeping mats. A few simple items were chinked into the rocks. A very spartan life for these kids.

Back on the trail the girls were now talking more and more about how hungry they were. They also wanted to be given just about everything we possessed. One girl kept grabbing at my pants and suggesting we fuck, even when Helene was present. Some desperation and anger began to show through their smiles.

We finally summited and tried to enjoy the view, but the jungle drums were beating. A rock had been thrown at us at one point, the younger herd boy kept trying to get in Helene's pockets, and the girls songs had become menacing.

One song went like... "Pick-a-ninny, Pick-a-ninny, Pick-a-ninny... Boss!" When they said "Boss" they would shout it in our faces and make a motion with their hand like they were cutting off their neck.

They knew we had food, so we brought it out for all to share. It was a feeding frenzy. Puffy Whites

I got a bite of banana and the cracker I was trying to eat was ripped from my mouth. The young herd boy had felt coins in Helene's pockets and was now all over her. I couldn't keep him off and was trying not to be violent so I took the coins out of her pocket and threw them down the mountain side.

With the kids occupied Helene and I started our descent. We were 2 hours away from the nearest village. In about 15 minutes the kids had caught up with us again. The older herd boy bounded down the hill back to his hut. The younger boy was shouting down the valleys to round up the other herders so they could gang up on us. We could see them running along the lower flanks of the mountain, all converging toward the hut.

We were stumbling down the mountain as fast as we could but they easily gathered at the hut before we got there. They young girls got scared and started to shout to one another to distance themselves from us as we approached the hut.

There was no way around the hut, so we braced ourselves and proceeded with some resignation into the crucible. The gang of herd boys all had sticks and stood around like little Clint Eastwoods in some spaghetti western movie. I was very relieved to see that the oldest was only around 14 and they were all skinny.

Basically they chased and harassed us like a pack of jackels for the next hour as we descended. Standing on the high ground whenever the trail narrowed, they would lord over us and wave their sticks.

At one point the young aggressive herd boy attempted to drag off one of the girls. Helene grabbed her arm and would not let go. A tug of war ensued until I drew near and he retreated. After that the girls offered us some protection in return.

When we got back to the village many of the parents dropped hints that we should give the kids some money. When we explained our ordeal they were sympathetic.

In the end, the kids were just expressing broader social expectations and grievances.

A few days later a black man visited me in my dreams. He was dressed in a loin cloth and gazed at me without an expression. Lifting his hand to his heart he made a scooping motion with his fingers.