RTW Leg 120
Nice (France) - Rome (Italy)
LFMN - LIRU 444 nm, 2:34 hours
Departure:
late afternoon

Nice,
Monaco (Monte Carlo), San Remo, Isle of Corse, Elba, Pisa, Florence,
Rome
NOTAM: From Nice to Imperia you are advised to follow
the coast line if the visibility is good enough, rather than flying directly
from waypoint to waypoint.
NARRATIVE
MONACO
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Monaco |
Monaco, officially
Principality of Monaco (French: Principauté de Monaco) is a sovereign
principality located along the Mediterranean Sea in the midst of the resort area
of the Côte d'Azur (French Riviera). The city of Nice lies 9 miles (15 km) to
the west, the Italian border 5 miles (8 km) to the east. Monaco's tiny territory
occupies a set of densely clustered hills and a headland that looks southward
over the Mediterranean. The principality has an area of only about 0.73 square
mile (1.9 square km). Many unusual features, however, have made Monaco among the
most luxurious tourist resorts in the world and have given it a fame far
exceeding its size.
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Grace Kelly |
Many visitors to
Monaco alternate their hours between its beaches and boating facilities, the
international sports-car races, and the world-famous Place du Casino, the
gambling center in the Monte-Carlo section that made Monte-Carlo an
international byword for the extravagant display and reckless dispersal of
wealth. The country has a mild Mediterranean climate with annual temperatures
averaging 61° F (16° C) and with only about 60 days of rainfall. Monthly average
temperatures range from 50° F (10° C) in January to 75° F (24° C) in August.
Thinking of Monaco is also thinking of Grace Kelly (1928-1982), the
former model and stage actress who came to film prominence with High Noon (1952)
and her Oscar-nominated role in Mogambo (1953). Kelly then starred in three
consecutive films directed by Alfred Hitchcock (To Catch a Thief, Dial M for
Murder, and Rear Window), who made brilliant use of her signature combination of
cool, elegant charm and smoldering sensuality. In 1956 she married Prince
Rainier of Monaco, becoming Her Serene Highness, Princess Grace of Monaco, and
retired from film (though she served on the board of directors of 20th
Century-Fox from 1976 to 1981). Grace Kelly died in a car accident in 1982.
One of the world's greatest and most challenging motor-racing events, the
Monaco Grand Prix is the last 'street course' remaining in the Formula
One calendar. Staged around the narrow, winding streets of Monte Carlo, the
attraction of the Monaco Grand Prix is the proximity of the speeding Formula One
cars to the race spectators. The twisting 78-lap circuit offers countless
opportunities over the 263-kilometre race to witness the thrill of screaming
engines, smoking tires and the genius of the drivers on a course that allows no
margin for error. Since the first Monaco Grand Prix was staged on the 14 April
1929, the fastest average race speed has risen from 80 kilometers (50 miles) per
hour to 142 kilometers (88 miles) per hour.
MONTE CARLO
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Monte Carlo: the Casino "Rien ne va
plus" |
Monte Carlo is one of the four quartiers
(sections) of Monaco. In 1856 Prince Charles III of Monaco granted a charter
allowing a joint stock company to build a casino. The casino opened in 1861, and
five years later the district around it was declared by the Prince to be
Monte-Carlo.
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Casino: interior |
To revitalize
the principality's economy, Monte-Carlo was transformed into a luxuriously
beautiful playground for the world's rich. The casino includes an opera house
(1878). The International Sporting Club (1932) is nearby. The gambling tables
are open only to visitors to Monaco. The casino operating company, which was
taken over by the government in 1967, contributes less than 5 percent of the
annual state budget. High-rise hotels and apartment buildings have replaced many
of Monte-Carlo's picturesque villas.
SAN REMO
We leave Monaco and soon we cross the French/Italian border
before reaching San Remo.
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San Remo Bay |
San Remo lies on the
Italian Riviera known as the Riviera dei Fiori. A year-round health resort since
1861, its repute was greatly increased by the visit of Frederick III of Germany
in 1887–88. The old town on the hillside has steep, narrow streets with
13th-century houses, the 12th-century cathedral of San Siro, and the sanctuary
of the Madonna della Costa (15th–17th century). The new town on the coast is
characterized by handsome villas and hotels, gardens and scenic promenades, and
the casino. The small seaport is sheltered by a 4,000-ft- (1,200-m-) long mole
and overlooked by the old Genoese Fort of Santa Tecla. San Remo has the most
important flower market in Italy and exports blooms to continental Europe.
Olives and lemons are also cultivated.
San Remo is also known from the
annual cycle race Milan - San Remo ("La Primavera"), over a distance of about
290 km. Since the first edition in 1907, the only time the race has not been
held was due to war in 1916, 1944 and 1945.
IMPERIA
Shortly before reaching Imperia (Italy), we leave the mainland
to set course for Corsica, crossing part of the Mediterranean Sea.
Imperia
lies on that part of the Riviera di Ponente known as the Riviera dei Fiori,
northeast of San Remo. Formed in 1923 by the union of Porto Maurizio, Oneglia,
and several villages, the town took its name from the Torrente Impero (“Impero
Stream”) that crosses the town. Porto Maurizio, once a Roman port, became the
seat of a Genoese vicar in 1276 and, with Genoa, fell to the French in 1797.
Joined to the kingdom of Sardinia in 1814, it was made a provincial capital in
1860. Oneglia originated in 935 from a Roman coastal castle, Castelvecchio, and
was a tenure of the Albenga episcopacy from 1100. Sold to the Doria family in
1298, it passed to the house of Savoy in 1576 and was captured by France in
1792. Passing to Piedmont in 1814, it was a provincial capital until 1859.
Imperia's Neoclassical-style Cathedral of San Maurizio (1779–81) is notable,
as are the province building (1910) and city hall (1932). Imperia is an
industrial and commercial centre and port on the Genoa-Ventimiglia-Nice railway
and road. The town is noted for the production and export of olive oil and
flowers. Tourism and the manufacture of spaghetti, perfume, drugs, and cement
are also important.
CORSICA
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Calvi Genoese citadel |
We reach
the coast of the island Corsica at Calvi. The medieval hilltop citadel of
Calvi takes centre stage in a marvelous natural arena - a circle of craggy
mountains encompassing six kilometers of fine, pearly-white sand, hemmed by the
fragrant shade of a pine forest. With such physical splendors - a superb beach,
a beautiful old town, an exhilarating ring of peaks and a sheltered harbor, it
is no surprise that Calvi has long been a popular destination for travelers.
Stylish shops, restaurants and cafés there are, along the colorful promenade
that verges the harbor and in the narrow streets behind it, but the old bastion
has kept its fascinating history intact. The glorious beach, with its gently
shelving sand, is perfect for all kinds of watersports - windsurfing,
para-gliding, dinghy sailing and water-skiing - and is such a length that the
assiduous can always find a quiet spot furthest away from the town.
Armand Sedgley first visited Calvi Feb. 14, 1944, as a 22-year-old B-17
bombardier when he and his crew crash-landed in the Mediterranean Sea about 200
meters from the city's shore. Their mission began earlier in the day when they
left Amendola Air Base, Italy, to bomb the railway yards in Verona, but German
fighter aircraft inflicted heavy damage and forced the B-17 to attempt a landing
at the closest Allied airfield: Calvi.
They lost altitude too quickly,
though, and were forced to crash land the aircraft in the sea.
Pilot 2nd Lt.
Frank Chaplick, Sedgeley, top turret gunner Tech. Sgt. Frank Bradley and right
waist gunner Staff Sgt. Joseph P. Baron survived the mission. Tail gunner Staff
Sgt. Tony Duca, radio operator Tech. Sgt. Robert H. Householder, and left waist
gunner Staff Sgt. George J. Murphy were killed in action before the crash
landing and went to a watery grave with their aircraft.
Sedgeley made his
second visit to Corsica Oct. 2, 51 years after his crash-landing. This time he
landed at the Calvi airport with his son David.
This second visit was as
part of a city of Calvi commemoration of the B-17, which is locally regarded as
a historical landmark to the war and the brave men and women who gave their
lives for liberty and freedom.
NOTAM: When you have installed CALVI.ZIP (513
kb), you will have a splendid view on the citadel. It's beautiful done in
FS2000. Fly over it at about 600 ft. The flight plan takes you right there at
waypoint CITAD.
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Corte |
From Calvi we go south-west
to Corte.
The fortress city and the villages are admirably situated
and have a wealth of frescoes in their Roman or Baroque sanctuaries.
Corsica (French Corse) is the fourth largest island (after Sicily, Sardinia,
and Cyprus) in the Mediterranean. It embraces (from 1976) two départements of
France, Haute-Corse and Corse-du-Sud. Corsica it is separated from Sardinia by
the 7-mile (11-kilometre) Strait of Bonifacio. The island has an area of 3,352
square miles (8,681 square km).
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Bastia |
Bastia is since
1976 the capital of Haute-Corse département. It lies on the northeastern coast
of Corsica, 22 miles (35 km) south of the island's northernmost point, the tip
of Cape Corse. It is close to the Italian mainland (73 miles [117 km] from
Livorno), and across the Tyrrhenian Sea can be seen the island of Elba, flanked
by Monte Cristo and Capraia. Originally a poor fishing village called Marina di
Cardo, in 1383 it changed its name after a Genoese keep, or bastiglia, was
constructed there. Bastia was the capital of Corsica until 1791 and still is
military headquarters of the island. The old town (Terra Vecchia) is built in
and around the central part of the harbor. The upper town (Terra Nuova) lies to
the south, the modern town to the north and west. The old town is a network of
alleys connected by dark, vaulted passages. The classical facades of the Church
of San Giovanni Battista, law court, theatre, and city hall are floridly
decorated. Bastia manufactures cigarettes, cigars, and preserves, and its
exports include the celebrated wines of Cape Corse.
About Corsica
Corsica is the problem of France. The country has a history
of disobedience, but the wish for independence or autonomy is complicated. There
are a number of organizations in Corsica who proclaim independence or autonomy
for the island. Their wishes vary from time to time and it has been influenced
with the level of support and benefits the French central government was
providing to the island and the organizations.
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Corsica |
To state their case, to
pressure the central government or to fight out a conflict with a concurrent
organizations assaults are committed towards government officials, official
buildings, houses of foreigners or at buildings of rival organizations. This has
been a real nuisance to the island and Paris. As a reaction the island was very
often granted more grants and benefits but the policy seems to change in Paris.
Especially now when the goals of the organizations started to change from
political to economical and private objectives.
The acquired social and
economical benefits created an above normal welfare for the island and
stability. The political instability was not a threat to the island as a whole
but the effects could now create a backlash. The central government gets tired
of the independent movements and want to eliminate them and the extraordinary
benefits for Corsica. If this new policy is implemented it will lead to a short
outburst of violence and more instability and would mean in the end a worser
position of Corsica. Whether as a part of France or a more autonomous /
independent region.
ELBA
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Elba: La Torra |
Latin Ilva, island
off the west coast of Italy, in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Elba has an area of 86
square miles (223 square km) and is the largest island of the Tuscan
Archipelago. It is famous as Napoleon's place of exile in 1814-15.
Administratively Elba is part of Livorno provincia, Tuscany regione, Italy. Its
coast is precipitous and its interior mountainous, rising to Mount Capanne
(3,343 feet [1,019 m]).
The Etruscans mined iron ore at Elba, which was then called Aethalia ("Smoky
Place") by the Greeks, probably because of the smelting furnaces. The Romans,
who called it Ilva, also mined iron ore and established a naval base on the
island. Elba was ruled by Pisa in the early Middle Ages, but it passed to Genoa
in 1290 and in 1399 to the dukes of Piombino, who ceded it to Cosimo I de Medici
of Florence in 1548. A portion of the island, in Spanish hands from 1596 until
1709, was next ruled by Naples. In 1802 it was ceded to France, and, when
Napoleon I abdicated in 1814, he was exiled to Elba. He arrived there on May 4.
The island was recognized as an independent principality with Napoleon as its
ruler until Feb. 26, 1815, on which day he returned to France for the Hundred
Days. Thereafter Elba was restored to Tuscany, with which it passed to unified
Italy in 1860.
Elba and Napoleon
In the spring of
1814 Napoleon Bonaparte was forced to abdicate his throne by the allied forces
of Europe (England, Prussia, Austria, and Russia) as well as malcontents in
France herself.
He was exiled to the island of Elba where he received an
annual allowance from France. The terms and stipulations of the exile were laid
out in the treaty of Fontainbleau, signed the 11th of April, 1814. He arrived on
Elba on May 4.
Napoleon's chief residence, the Mulini Palace, overlooks the
sea near Portoferraio, Elba's chief town, on the north coast. His summer
residence, Villa San Martino, lies 4 miles (6 km) southwest and contains a
museum and a collection of engravings.
Napoleon's repose on Elba was
pleasant, and though the full staff which accompanied him to the island was only
thirty-five, it still made up an imperial court. However, Napoleon was only a
"play emperor" and he knew it.
On Elba, Napoleon grew weary of playing
emperor. Many of the conditions of the treaty of Fontainbleau were not being met
and Napoleon grew restless. Late one night he stole off with about 1200 troops
aboard a hired frigate. He then marched his troops first toward Grenoble He met
little armed resistance until he reached the hamlet of Laffray where he
encountered a battalion of the 5th Regiment of the Line. Stepping forward from
his little army, Napoleon advanced within a pistol shot of the hostile troops
who had formed up and been given orders to open fire on the Emperor. They
hesitated, at the sight of Napoleon so brazenly standing before him. It is
recorded that he threw open his coat and shouted to them: "Let him that has the
heart, kill his Emperor!" It is also recorded that these soldiers threw down
their arms and cried "Vive l'Empereur!" Napoleon then ordered them to form up
and they all marched on together.
Napoleon encountered no more resistance to
his march on Paris. Seven days before Napoleon's arrival in Paris, the Allies
(England, Prussia, Austria, and Russia) met in Vienna to decide what should be
done. Napoleon was declared an outlaw and it was resolved that the Allies should
combine armies and attack France from all sides. Though Napoleon's efforts were
great, he was only able to bring some 300,000 troops to bear against the Allies'
combined armies of almost 1,000,000 men
After the defeat at Waterloo,
Napoleon returned to Paris where he at first began to plan further resistance,
but he was hostility resisted and the next day, on the 22nd of June he abdicated
for a second time. He was induced to leave Paris and he attempted to flee to the
United States, but was intercepted by the English, who held him prisoner until
he surrendered to them on the 15th of July on board the ship, Bellerophon.
Later on Napoleon was sent to St. Helena (a small island in the Atlantic,
1700 miles north-west of Cape Town) where he had to spend the rest of his life.
PIOMBINO
After leaving Elba, we head for the Italian mainland, where we
reach Piombino, a town in the Livorno provincia, Toscana (Tuscany) regione. It
lies at the tip of the Piombino promontory below Mount Massoncello, opposite the
island of Elba. Once a possession of the archbishops of Pisa, it was declared a
princedom in 1594 and was variously owned or occupied before becoming part of
the Kingdom of Italy in 1861. Its Piazza Bovio, standing on a cliff, is one of
the finest squares in Italy. Nearby Populonia has Etruscan, Roman, and medieval
remains. An old seaport with significant shipping traffic, Piombino has
ironworks and steelworks and provides passenger and car ferry service to Elba;
it is connected by branch railway with Campiglia Marittima on the main
Rome-Genoa line.
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Pisa The Leaning
Tower |
PISA
Pisa is the capital of the provincia of Pisa, central Italy, in the
regione of Tuscany (Toscana). The city lies on the alluvial plain of the Arno
River, about 6 miles (10 km) from the Ligurian Sea and 50 miles (80 km) west of
Florence. Pisa lay by the sea until the 15th century, by which time accumulated
silt deposited by the Arno River had completely cut the city off from the
receding shoreline.
Pisa is well known for its Leaning Tower.
The construction begun in
1173 and it must have been suspended at the completion of the third ring, around
ten years later, since a subsidence of the soil of between 30 and 40 cm. had
thrown the tower out of the perpendicular, causing an initial overhang of circa
5 cm. More than a century after the laying of the foundation stone, was once
again begun (1275) by Giovanni di Simone, who added three more levels,
correcting the axis of the Campanile. In 1284 the six stories of loggias were to
all effects finished, bringing the height of the building to 48 m., and
employing a technical expedient that was meant to diminish, at least optically,
the effects of the inclination, accomplished by raising the galleries of the
upper floors on that side.
At the time the inclination of the Tower was more than 90 cm. The tormented
vicissitudes of the Tower did not, as one might expect, greatly worry those who
were involved in the construction and completion. The long intervals between
building activity were dictated, most likely, by the need of letting the
Campanile 'rest', but above all by letting both the foundations and the ground
on which they rested settle down.
In a certain sense it can be said that the subsidence of the soil and the
consequent inclination had, on the whole, been foreseen. At the beginning of the
14th century the bells were placed at the sixth level, in the large opening
still visible in the marble cylinder beyond the loggia. Between 1350 and 1372
Tommaso di Andrea Pisano (according to Vasari) terminated the installation of
the belfry on the summit of the sixth order of loggias, increasing the
correction of the axis, and thus diminishing the load on the side that was in
inclination, which in the mean while had become fixed at 1.43 m.
Conceived of not only as a bell tower, but also as a belvedere for the square
below - from the earliest times the loggias have served as 'grandstand' for
religious events and fairs - it rises 58.36 m above the level of the foundation,
just under 56 m over the level of the countryside, and its inclination, measured
at the base, is over 4 m. The average subsidence of the base is 2.25 m, while
the progressio of the overhang, despite all attempts so far made to bring it to
a halt, is about 1.2 mm per year.
NOTAM: The Leaning Tower is a few miles after PISA Vor, at
waypoint TOWER. The tower is in the default FS2000 scenery, but looks a little
ugly. To see it you have to descent to less than 2,000 ft.
FLORENCE
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Piazza della Signoria with Pilazzo
Vecchio |
Florence, in Latin called Florentia,
is the capital of Firenze province and Toscana (Tuscany) region, central Italy.
The city has, during its long history, been a republic, a seat of the duchy of
Tuscany, and a capital (1865–71) of Italy. Florence was founded as a Roman
military colony about the 1st century BC and during the 14th to 16th centuries
achieved preeminence in commerce and finance, learning, and, especially, the
arts. The modern city has an area of about 40 square miles (104 square
kilometers). It is surrounded by gently rolling hills that are covered with
villas and farms, vineyards and orchards.
The present glory of Florence is
its past. Its buildings are works of art abounding in yet more works of art. The
splendors of the city are stamped with the personalities of the men who made
them. The geniuses of Florence were backed by men of towering wealth, and the
city to this day gives testimony to their passions for religion, for art, for
power, or for money. Among the most famous of the city's giants are Leonardo
da Vinci, Michelangelo, Dante, Machiavelli, Galileo, and its most renowned
rulers, the generations of the Medici family.
The cultural and
historical impact of Florence is overwhelming. Close up, however, the city is
one of Italy's most atmospheric and pleasant, retaining a strong resemblance to
the small late-medieval centre that contributed so much to the cultural and
political development of Europe. Unfortunately, it can be one of Italy's most
clogged tourist traps, with up to 2000 tourist buses arriving daily in the peak
season.
Where Rome is a historical hot-pot, Florence is like stepping back
into a Fiat and Vespa-filled Renaissance: the shop-lined Ponte Vecchio, the
trademark Duomo, the gem-filled Uffizi Gallery, the turreted Piazza della
Signoria and the Medici Chapels. Thankfully, these unforgettables are all within
walking distance of each other.
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Arno River and Ponte
Vecchio |
Florence was badly damaged during WWII by
the retreating Germans, who bombed all its bridges except the Ponte Vecchio.
Devastating floods ravaged the city in 1966, causing inestimable damage to its
building and artworks, some of which are still being restored. The salvage
operation led to the widespread use of modern restoration techniques which have
saved artworks throughout the country.
One of the places to visit when you are in Florence, is the Piazza della
Signoria
The piazza was at the hub of Florence's political life through
the centuries, and is surrounded by some of the city's most celebrated
buildings. With its famous group of sculptures, the loggia looks a lot like an
outdoor sculpture gallery; Cellini's magnificent statue of Perseus and
Giambologna's Rape of a Sabine are particularly striking.
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David |
Guarding the Palazzo
Vecchio is a copy of Michelangelo's oh-so-strokeable David. The palazzo has
been Florence's town hall since 1322. Its characterful tower is another of
Florence's symbols, and the interior of the palazzo was lavishly redecorated by
Vasari. An elevated corridor called Vasari's Corridor leads from the palazzo,
through the Uffizi, across the Arno by way of the Ponte Vecchio, and all the way
down to the Palazzo Pitti. The private walkway was used by the Medici family as
a way of visiting their scattered palaces without having to mingle with the
masses. The walkway is lined, as if merely as an afterthought, with works of
art.
Backing onto the loggia, and leading all the way down to the banks of
the River Arno, is the famed Uffizi Gallery. The gallery's wonderful collection
is arranged to illustrate the evolving story of Florentine art. Some of the most
famous pieces are in rooms 7-18; they include Botticelli's Birth of Venus,
Titian's Venus of Urbino, Michelangelo's Holy Family and Piero della Francesca's
Duke & Duchess of Urbino.
If you make it out of the Uffizi with any
energy and concentration left to spare, wander along the banks of the Arno
towards the Ponte Vecchio. The famous 14th-century bridge is lined with shops
selling gold and silver jewelry - a step up from the butcher shops that lined
the bridge before Cosimo I decided glitter was better than gore. As mentioned
before, this bridge was the only one in the city to escape destruction during
WWII.
Those who have read the thriller "Hannibal" (by Thomas Harris), a
sequel to "The Silence of the Lambs", might remember that the main part of this
novel is situated in Florence, where Hannibal Lector was about to be selected as
a prestigious curator for the Palazzo Vecchio. It was also in the Palazzo
Vecchio that the Florence police officer, Rinaldo Pazzi, was slaughtered by
Hannibal by hanging him from the balcony of the Palazzo with his bowels hanging
out (the same thing that happened to Pazzi's ancestors).
- For a Guided Tour of Dante's Florence, follow this link: Guided
Tour
- If you want to know more about Dante Alighieri and his master piece "La
divinia commedia (The Divine Comedy)", you can visit: Dante's Life and Work. (Some
of the picture and links on that page are however obsolete)
- You can download he complete English translantion of Dante's The Divine
Comedy (free, as a ZIP file, 259 kb) at Project
Gutenberg
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Siena: Cathedral |
The next
historical town we are going to visit is Siena.
Ramparts - just one of
the many vestiges of the city's medieval prime - still crown the hills that
surround gentle Siena. Its many reddish-brown buildings gave the world 'burnt
sienna', and a thriving cultural scene was dubbed the Sienese school in the
13th and 14th centuries. Plague and autocrats from the Viscontis to the Medicis
brought urban growth and cultural finesse to a screaming halt, the rot setting
in with the plague of 1348, which killed 65,000 of the city's 100,000 people.
Fortunately, Italy's finest medieval square - the Piazza del Campo - was
finished just in time, with the graceful town hall and emblemic tower nearby.
Siena's duomo is a stunner, with black and white stripes of marble on the
facade. Palazzos, piazzas, art collections, museums and churches are scattered
throughout the easily walkable old town, making Siena a great destination for
visitors who like to see things from the pavement up.
ROME
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Colosseum |
Rome (Italian Roma), a
capital of kingdoms and of republics and of an empire the armies and polity of
which defined the Western world in antiquity and left seemingly indelible
imprints thereafter, a city called eternal, as the spiritual and physical centre
of the Roman Catholic Church, and a city whose name evokes major pinnacles of
artistic and intellectual achievement, Rome has retained all of these
attributes: the capital of Italy, a font of religious authority, and a memorial
to the creative imagination of the past. Probably more than any other city in
the West, possibly more than any other in the world, it is a city whose history
continues to shape nearly every aspect of its being but, at the same time, whose
contemporary consciousness of that history projects it into the very core of
modern life. There's no escaping it: Rome means history. There's layers of the
stuff - Etruscan tombs, Republican meeting rooms, Imperial temples, early
Christian churches, medieval bell towers, Renaissance palaces and baroque
basilicas. In this city a phenomenal concentration of history, legend and
monuments coexists with an equally phenomenal concentration of people busily
going about their everyday life. It's hard to say what you'll find most
breathtaking about the eternal city - the arrogant opulence of the Vatican, the
timelessness of the Forum, the top speed of a Fiat Bambino or the bill for your
caffè latte.
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Arch of Constatine |
Rome is
halfway down Italy's western coast, about 20km (12mi) inland. It's a vast city,
but the historic centre is quite small. Most of the major sights are within a
reasonable distance of the central railway station, Stazione Termini. It is, for
instance, possible to walk from the Colosseum, through the Forum, up to Piazza
di Spagna and across to the Vatican in one day, but you wouldn't really want to.
All the major monuments are west of the train station, but make sure you use a
map. While it can be enjoyable to get off the beaten track in Rome, it can also
be very frustrating and time-consuming.
The Palatine Hill and the Forum are
the centre of ancient Rome. Via del Corso runs north from the Forum to Piazza
del Popolo, with the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain just to its east. The
Vatican is northwest of the Forum, across the River Tiber.
Most of the
budget places to stay are clustered around Stazione Termini; this area is rife
with pickpockets and gangs of thieving children, so beware - do your best to
look like you know where you're going (pretend you're John Travolta strutting
along to 'Staying Alive'). It is only slightly more expensive and definitely
more enjoyable to stay closer to the city centre. Good-quality, reasonably
priced meals can be found in the trattorie around Piazza Navona and in
Trastevere.
Fiumicino airport is about 26km (16mi) southwest of the city.
Stazione Termini is just northeast of the Palatine Hill and the Forum. The main
bus station is just outside Termini.
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St Peters Basilica |
Holy
See
Not many religions actually own a country, but Catholicism isn't just
any religion, and the Holy See - or Vatican City - isn't any ordinary country.
Headed up by his holiness, the tiny enclave in the heart of Rome is the
administrative and spiritual capital of Roman Catholicism, and the world's
smallest independent state. During the working week, the population increases
fivefold as residents of Rome cross the 'border' to do the Lord's work.
Despite its importance to the devout - there are an estimated one billion
Catholics worldwide - it's not all bells and smells at the pope's house. Scandal
and intrigue have accompanied the office of the papacy for almost two millennia,
and plenty of that scandal occurred within the Vatican buildings. But even
without a dubious relationship with the Nazis, corruption and rumours of Mafia
murders, the Vatican would remain a spectacular destination for history buffs,
religious types and art-lovers alike. The Vatican is probably per square foot
the richest country in the world, making up for their total lack of natural
resources with an astonishing collection of priceless art treasures.
Rome's History
You cannot visit Rome without knowing a bit about
its history. Actually of course you can, but you will miss a lot. And you will
never understand Europe's history without a certain knowledge of the Roman
Empire, which has influenced our languages and our law systems.
Ancient Romans believed their city had been founded on 21 April 753 BC, and
more recent archaeological discoveries pretty much back this up. According to
myth, the city was founded by the twin sons of Mars, god of war, and Rhea
Silvia, princess and (until meeting Mars) vestal virgin. The twins, Romulus and
Remus, were abandoned on the shores of the Tiber and brought up by a she-wolf.
Romulus killed his brother in a battle over who should govern, then established
the city of Rome on the Palatino.
The nonmythical city was ruled by Etruscan kings until 510 BC, when it became
a republic. By the 2nd century BC the city controlled central and southern
Italy, had defeated the rival empire of Carthage in three Punic wars and was
poised to take over the whole Mediterranean. But as Rome became more powerful
abroad, its citizens got more uppity at home - the city suffered several civil
wars, with the last wrapping up on the Ides of March, 44 BC, when Brutus
backstabbed Julius Caesar.
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|
Castel Sant'Angelo |
The Republic
ended and the emperors took over, ushering in a frenzy of civic and monumental
building. Each emperor wanted to leave his mark on the city - Nero built the
Domus Aurea, Vespasian the Colosseum (see picture), Trajan his eponymous
column (see picture), Hadrian Castel Sant'Angelo (see picture) -
and in their eagerness to outdo one another, they sprinkled Rome with many of
the famous buildings that still stand today. The Empire reached its greatest
extent under Trajan (who ruled from 98-117 AD), spanning the area from northern
England to Mesopotamia, north to the River Danube and south down the Nile.
With the rise of Christianity in the 4th century, Rome lost much of its
secular power but became the centre of a new empire, Christendom. The Bishop of
Rome was named successor to Saint Peter (or, in other words, Pope), which made
him the big guy of Western Europe. Many of the city's large basilicas - such as
Santa Croce, Santa Maria Maggiore, San Pietro and San Sebastiano - were built
around this time.
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The Colomn of Trajan |
When, in
410, the Barbarian invasions began, Rome waved goodbye to the last of its salad
days. Although the Vandals are often blamed for the sack of Rome, the citizens
themselves did more damage, stripping many of the city's fine buildings for
their marble. The Western Roman Empire bit the dust in 476 when Odoacer deposed
Emperor Romulus Augustulus - from this time on power moved east, and Germanic
and Byzantine leaders bickered over who was the real emperor. Things looked grim
for the Eternal City until the late 8th century, when Pope Stephen II backed up
the claims of Frankish king Pepin the Short that he was the chosen of God, and
in return received a parcel of land around Rome. The alliance became known as
the Holy Roman Empire - combining the power of church and state - and on
Christmas Day 800 the Frankish king, Charlemagne, was crowned Holy Roman
Emperor.
From the 9th to the 12th centuries the power of the popes grew, although it
was under constant attack from the city's various aristocratic houses. The
papacy splurged its wealth on several new churches dedicated to the Virgin - the
Santa Marias of Cosmedin, Trastevere (with its spectacular mosaic), Aracoeli and
sopra Minerva. Although things hit the skids a bit in the 14th century, when the
pope was exiled to Avingnon, France, due to factional fighting and the city's
population and infrastructure took a plummet, the papacy had reestablished its
firm grip on the reigns by the 15th century. Things got lavish. In cahoots with
some of Italy's greatest artists - Raphael, Bernini, Borromini - and their
cash-stacked patrons - the Medicis, Farneses and Borgheses - the papacy
transformed Rome into a wonderland of Renaissance and Baroque piazzas, churches
and fountains. Money poured in as pilgrims came from all over Europe to see the
wonders of the Holy See. The only real interruption to papal power came in the
form of the Roman Commune, whose republican constitution and classical-style
senate were instituted during the Roman revolution of 1143.
But as some guy once said, pride goes before a fall: Charles V's sack of Rome
in 1527, the French Revolution, Napoleon's march across Europe and the
Franco-Prussian War pulled the rug out from under papal power. In 1870 Rome
became capital of the newly united Italy, leaving the pope with mere figurehead
status and causing him to abandon the city for the home fires of the Vatican
(the pope was made sovereign of Vatican City in 1929). The new administration
was more interested in offices and housing blocks than churches, and during the
1930s the city expanded beyond the city walls. During Mussolini's rule, in the
1920s and '30s, Rome took on Fascist airs, puffing out its chest with wide
boulevards and overblown architecture. Dreams of imperial glory led Mussolini to
form an alliance with Germany during WWII, and the nightmare that ended up
taking place helped set the scene for Italy's transformation from a
totalitarianistic regime into a republic in 1946. The postwar years saw Rome's
physical expansion and a role as the centre of Italy's film industry until the
early 1960s.
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Michelangelo: Mozes |
The 1970s and
'80s were marked by more violent transformations, namely those of some radical
student groups with a long list of complaints about Italy's left-wing
governments into right-wing terrorists. The Brigate Rosse (Red Brigade) was the
most notorious group, going so far as to kidnap and eventually murder former
prime minister Aldo Moro in Rome in 1978. The last few decades of the 20th
century saw a mixture of economic success and wide-ranging corruption scandals
which touched many a politician, public official and businessperson. The public
reacted with perverse moral indignation in 1994 by electing a stridently
right-wing coalition headed by a billionaire media magnate, Silvio Berlusconi.
Rome-style politics remain complicated in the new century, with a government
that threatens to be unified and focused on economic reform trying to stave off
a resurgence of support for Berlusconi (whose own idea of reform involves
implying he has the power to perform miracles - in late 2000 he claimed the
credit for the healing a wheelchair-bound man).
Meanwhile, Rome proper ostensibly remains, as it has always been, an
administrative and tourist centre, without much sign of industry or trade.
NOTAM: We land at the smaller airport Urbe
(LIRU), about 3 nm NW of the City Center. The landing has to be a visual one, as
the airport has no landing aids.
Runway 16/34, length 3543 ft, altitude 98
ft.
| Please note that these RTW Narratives are produced
using materials from various sites, in print and on the web. They
are intended for the private use of the RTW Buzz pilots only and are not
meant for public dissemination. |
Additional Scenery:
Name: FRP.ZIP Size: 441,333 Date:
03-20-2001
FS2000 scenery--French Riviera Project v1.1. Includes Toulon,
Saint-Tropez, Monaco, Nice, Cannes (France). By Olivier Bochu. (See also
FRP2.ZIP)
Name: FRP2.ZIP Size: 2,249,187 Date: 03-26-2001
FS2000
scenery--French Riviera Project Update, France, for use with FRP.ZIP. Includes
missing textures, fixes transparent buildings, adds a few modifications. By
Olivier Bochu.
Name: FRA_V1.ZIP (6.2 mb) and 2_FRA-V1.ZIP (4.8 mb)
FS2000 - France and
Corsica Version 2 - Terrain Mesh Scenery by Raimondo
Taburet
Note: Alternatively for Corsica you can use
BALECORS.ZIP (497 kb) by Raimondo Taburet. This mesh scenery includes the
Baleares and Corsica. You might prefer this scenery for its smaller file size.
And you don't really need French mesh scenery for this flight.
Name: CALVI.ZIP (513 kb)
FS2000: Scenery containing the citadel of Calvi
REMARK: Included with the ZIP file for this RTW leg, is
737012.ZIP.
This file contains a FUN flight in the default Cessna 182S to be
flown without the panel being displayed at any time. It takes about 28 minutes
and shows you Rome at its best.
The author, Denis Egan ("The Ancient Brit")
from Noble Air, was so kind to give me permission to use it for our RTW Buzz.
Don't forget to read his briefing.
This Rome flight is part of a set of FS2K
GPS RTW Jet plans written by The Ancient Brit and currently available from the
Avsim FS2000 Flight Plan category. The filenames have all the form of
7370xx.zip, where xx stands for the route number.
Flightplan &
Narrative:
Jozef Kusters (RTW Pilot #038)