RTW Leg 128

Graz - Innsbruck (Austria)
LOWG - LOWI 317 nm, 1:45 hours
Departure: early morning


Route Map
Graz, Zeltweg, Klagenfurt, Salzburg, Rattenberg, Innsbruck


NARRATIVE


Today's flight takes us over the Austrian part of the Alps to Innsbruck, where the dangerous airport LOWI is already awaiting us.

After taking off from Graz we turn to Zeltweg, a nice holiday resort which is also known for its Formula One Grand Prix racing circuit and for its airshows. Then turning to the southwest we we reach Klagenfurt.

KLAGENFURT
Klagenfurt-Wörtersee
Klagenfurt-Wörtersee

Klagenfurt is the capital of Kärnten Bundesland (federal state), southern Austria. It lies along the Glan River in a basin east of Wörtersee (Wörther Lake) and north of the Karawanken Mountains. Founded in the 12th century and chartered in 1279, it passed to the Habsburgs in 1335. As it was largely destroyed in a fire in 1514, most of its notable buildings date from the 16th century and have lines influenced by Italian architecture.

The beautiful lake Worthersee is a popular summer resort region. The picture is taken from the Schlosshotel Worthersee, an old converted castle situated on the side of a hill. The lake is 10.5 miles long, about 1 mile wide, and 279 feet at its deepest point.

From Klagenfurt we fly northwest to Werfen where we can visit the nearby Ice Caves (Eisriesenwelt Caves).


EISRIESENWELT CAVES
Eisriesenwelt
Eisriesenwelt
Set at an elevation of 1640m, the Eisriesenwelt Caves are the largest accessible ice caves in the world. They comprise more than 40km of explored passageways and 30,000 cubic m of ice. Entry to the caves is regulated and a 75-minute tour takes in several immense caverns containing elaborate ice formations and frozen waterfalls. The caves were first entered in 1879, but it was one Alexander von Mork who pioneered the most extensive exploration: when he signed off, his ashes were placed in an urn in the 'cathedral' cave. Be sure to wear warm clothes because the passageways are as close as you'll ever come to feeling you've been trapped in your Westinghouse icebox. The caves are open between May and early October and are located near Werfen.

At the end of the nineteenth century the caves were only known to hunters and poachers. Not until 1879 did Anton Posselt, a natural scientist from Salzburg, push 200 metres into the darkness of the caves and officially "discoverd" the Eisriesenwelt. One year later he published a detailed report of his discovery in a mountaineering magazine, but the caves then slipped back into obscurity for years.

After visiting the caves we fly north to Salzburg

SALZBURG
Austria's home town of Baroque, and the birthplace of that talented tunesmith Mr Mozart, is picturesquely sheltered by surrounding mountains and straddles the Salzach River near the border with Germany. The Salzburg that everyone knows and loves was largely built by three bishop-princes in the late-16th and early-17th century, which is what gives the city its Italian flavour and its skyline punctuated by countless medieval spires, domes, belfries and turrets. The old town, on the south bank of the river, is a Baroque masterpiece of churches, plazas, courtyards and fountains, oozing so much charm that it's enough to make you forgive young Wolfgang for being so precocious and omniscient. Museums, houses, squares, chocolate bars, liqueurs - you name it and it's got a Mozart tag stuck on it.

Hohensalzburg Castle
Hohensalzburg Castle

The high point of a visit to Salzburg (literally and metaphorically) is a tour of the 11th-century Hohensalzburg Castle, which stands on a rock outcrop about 120m above the city. It's almost a separate village in its own right, with all the usual self-sufficient accoutrements of a tiny settlement like torture chambers, state rooms, a tower and two museums. On the east side of the old town, the stunning Museum of Natural History has the standard flora and fauna displays, good hands-on physics exhibits and some stomach-churning deformed human embryos. To round off the grisly experience, there are tours of the catacombs in the graveyard of the 9th-century St Peter's Abbey.

If you're on a musical pilgrimage, you can visit Mozart's birthplace, his home, the grave of his father and widow, and the house of a person who once knew someone who knew someone whose great-great grandfather once played second bassoon in a Mozart opera.

The Summer International Festival held in Salzburg in July-August naturally gives his tunes a good workout. If you're looking for kitsch, try The Sound of Music tour: ten bucks to the best rendition of Julie Andrews singing 'The Hills are Alive with the Sound of Music'. Four km south of Salzburg's old town is the Baroque Hellbrunn Palace, built in the 17th-century by bishop Marcus Sitticus. The grounds contain ingenious trick fountains and water-powered figures thanks to the bishop's strange fascination with soaking unsuspecting visitors. Expect the tour guides to continue the bishop's perverse tradition.

Salzburg's Residenz
Salzburg's Residenz
Salzburg's Residenz, situated in the heart of the city, is an extensive complex of buildings, containing some 180 rooms and three spacious courtyards. Here the the prince archbishops of Salzburg held court and controlled the destiny of their country up to the 19th century.

The prince archbishops continued to add on to their palace for centuries. The building sustained substantial structural changes under Prince Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau (1587 - 1612).

The Residenz, used to entertain the important guests of the prince archbishops for many centuries, continues to serve in that function. In recent decades it has seen crowned heads, political leaders and prominent figureheads. In 1867 Emperor Franz Josef I and his wife Elisabeth welcomed the French Emperor Napoleon III and his wife Eugénie for an official visit over a period of several days at the former archiepiscopal court.

Today the Residenz is the venue for official receptions, meetings and international conventions. The Residenz is entered from Residenz Square through a large marble portal bearing the coat of arms of the prince archbishops Wolf Dietrich, Paris Lodron and Franz Anton Harrachs. The wide main staircase leads up to the Carabinierisaal. This hall was built around 1600 under Wolf Dietrich and is named after the prince archbishop's bodyguards. The hall was not only used by the bodyguards but also as a theater and banquet hall.

The adjoining state rooms, used by the former prince bishops for court ceremonies, were redecorated under Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt at the beginning of the 18th century. The ceiling frescoes are the work of Michael Rottmayr and Martino Altomonte.

The prince bishops often invited guests to a concert performance in the Rittersaal. Young Mozart also played regularly at the Salzburg Residenz. At that time his father was in the archbishop's service as the director of the cathedral orchestra. Today concerts (Salzburg Palace Concerts) are still performed in this hall because of its excellent acoustics. On May 1,1816 Emperor Franz I administered the oath of allegiance to the Salzburg trades in this room. That was the beginning of Salzburg's affiliation to Austria. His fourth wife, Caroline Auguste, came to Salzburg during the summer for almost thirty years and stayed at the Residenz. She was also one of the greatest promoters of Salzburg's Carolino Augusteum Museum which was named after her.

Interior
Residenz: Interior
Other halls in the Residenz are the Conference Room or Ratszimmer (Councillors' Room), where Mozart performed his first court concert at the age of six, the Antecamera, the Audience Hall, the most magnificent hall of the Residenz and the most dominating of the archiepiscopal state rooms, symbolizing the power and the magnitude of the ecclesiastical and secular principality and its absolutistic administration. Also noteworthy are the Arbeitszimmer (Study), the Schreibzimmer and Schatullenzimmer (Writing Room and Privy Room), the Bedroom, the Gallery (cornerstone for the present-day Residence Gallery), the Throne Room, the White Hall or Markus Sittikus Hall, the Green Room and the Emperor's Hall, formerly called the Emperor's Chamber, adorned by portraits of the kings and emperors of the Habsburg Dynasty. A corrider directly connects the Emperor's Hall with the mighty late Gothic choir of the Franciscan Church. Wolf Dietrich used this corrider to reach the private apartments of the Residenz where his mistress, Salome Alt, and the children lived.

Today, several characteristic sections of the archiepiscopal palace are part of Salzburg' s Paris Lodron University. The so-called Toscana Wing to the north is the seat of the University of Salzburg's Faculty for Jurisprudence. During the renovation of the Toscana Wing important structures were unearthed and significant archeological findings discovered, providing scientists with valuable information about Medieval Salzburg.

Mozart's Salzburg
The sounds of music have been the key to Salzburg's success. But long before the Von Trapp family were shaking their booties on Salzburg's picturesque hilltops, one of the world's most influential composers was making music about some of his favourite things. Salzburg, the city that gave Wolfgang Mozart scant encouragement when he was alive, now can't get enough of him or the yearly influx of well-heeled music lovers his music brings.

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born in Salzburg to a musician father in 1756. Six years later, little Wolfgang was playing his first royal concert in Vienna for the Austrian royal family. By the time he was eight, he'd toured London, Paris, Rome, Geneva, Frankfurt and the Hague. He only lived to be 35, but in that time he composed 626 pieces including 24 operas, 41 symphonies and over 40 concertos. Praise for his music came from many quarters - Haydn believed him to be the 'greatest composer' and Schubert effused that the 'magic of Mozart's music lights the darkness of our lives'. In other words, Mozart was, y'know, good.

Skip forward two centuries and modern day Salzburg is a veritable museum to Mozart's achievements. A musical pilgrimage to Salzburg includes a visit to Mozart's birthplace, his home, the grave of his father and widow, and the house of a person who once knew someone who knew someone whose great-great grandfather once played second bassoon in a Mozart opera. You can buy Mozart Balls (small spheres made of chocolate wrapped in swisho paper and with a pic of Wolfie on them) at every corner, and it seems every second street is named after him (there are 16 streets in relatively small Salzburg with the name Mozart or Wolfgang in them).

Mozartplatz
Mozart Square and Monument
Hell, you can even spend him all over Austria by using the 5000 schilling note on which he appears (ironically, the man died a pauper). You see, Mozart is to Austria what Elvis once was to Vegas baby Vegas. Combined with the breathtaking beauty of Salzburg - located within the spectacular valleys and mountains of Austria's Alpine region, and possessing a spectacular architectural heritage - Mozart is quite a drawcard. If you get lucky, you might even hear some of his music.

The Mozart Square is dominated by the statue of Mozart by Ludwig Schwanthaler, ceremoniously unveiled on September 5, 1842 in the presence of Mozart's sons. Mozart's widow, Constanze von Nissen, did not live to see the unveiling. She died on March 6th of the same year in the house at Mozartplatz 8. A plaque was placed on the house in her memory. . Originally, the monument was to have been unveiled in 1841 but a valuable Roman mosaic tile floor was discovered during excavation work:

"hic habitat [felicitas], nihil intret mali"
(Here dwells happiness, may no evil enter.)
which postponed the unveiling until September 1842.

We leave Salzburg and fly south towards Zell am See were we will pickup the Grossglockner Road, which we will follow to Heiligenblut.

GROSSGLOCKNER ROAD
Grossglockner Road
Grossglockner Road
Roadmap
Scan of the map I used in 1983
(CLICK ON MAP TO ENLARGE)
For a fantastic 50km mountain tour, load up the car and head for the Grossglockner Road, Austria's No1 panorama drama. The road was built between 1930 and 1935, but the course it follows has been an important trading route between Germany and Italy since the Middle Ages. Most of the juicy bits are in the Hohe Tauern National Park where there are dramatic views of numerous unpronounceable peaks, including the mighty Grossglockner which looms across the vast tongue of the Pasterze Glacier and looks every centimetre of its 3797m. The Grossglockner Road requires a toll and is open to traffic between May and November. Start the journey in Zell am See and end in Heiligenblut. At the highest point of the road you are 2,571 m or 8,430 ft above sea level.

My wife and I have driven that road during a 4 week holiday in Austria in the late summer of 1983. At that height, you almost wishes to have a mixture control in your car to lean the mixture! But I did have an altimeter (a hand-held one). We also visited Innsbruck, but not the airport. At that time I didn't have a flight simulator and was not yet very much interested in aviation.

Before reaching Heiligenblut, we turn west to the Grossglockner (waypoit GLOCK).

Ticket
Toll ticket
"230 Shilling bitte.."
The Grossglockner (12,460 ft or 3,797 m high), is the highest point in the Hohe Tauern range and in Austria.
Grossglockner peak
Grossglockner peak
The great Pasterze glacier (12 sq mi/31 sq km; 5 mi/8 km long) is on the mountain. The nine kilometre long Pasterze Glacier is the largest glacier in the Eastern Alps. It originates on the Johannisberg (3454 m) and terminates near the Franz Josefs Höhe (2100 m). The Pasterze Glacier and the Grossglockner are together the number one destination for the approximately 1.5 million people per year who use the Grossglockner High Alpine Road.

The glacier is in retreat and loses about 5 metres in height and 20 metres in length per year. A 9000 year old Arolla Pine tree stump melted out in 1990 due to the ice retreat. The tree stump shows that 10000 years ago, the area (where the glacier is now) was forested and warmer than it is today.

Ski races were held on the glacier for many years. The glacier was however recognized as a great source of water and water reserves. It is therefore a special protection area within the Hohe Tauern National Park today.

The next station on our todays tour is Sankt Johann in Tirol, the Hiking & Family Paradise....

Airfield Sankt Johann
Airfield Sankt Johann (LOIJ)
... embedded in the Wilder Kaiser (2,344 m) mountain range and the Kitzbüheler Horn (2,000 m) peak. the climatic health resort of St.Johann is located right in the heart of the sunny holiday region. Choose from more than 240 km of hiking trails amid unspoilt nature landscapes. The charming village with its picturesque center is surrounded by the Kitzbühel Alps and offers many shopping facilities.

A wide range of activity programs and recreational highlights await you as well. St.Johann is a true paradise for families and children: Panorama swimming world, indoor pool, 4 outdoor pools, 2 giant water slides, children’s facilities, sauna, steam bath, children’s playground, beach volleyball site and a lot more ...

Further highlights include ballooning, rafting, uphill facilities, summer toboggan track, 13 golf courses within easy reach, guided hiking tours, adventure programs for children, outings! Or you can visit the small airfield of Sankt Johann (LOIJ) for some gliding in the mountains. Get away from it all and enjoy rest and recreation in the heart of nature. Perfect holidays for families and sport fans guaranteed.

Turning westward we fly to Rattenberg which is in fact our IAP (Initial Approach Point) for Innsbruck.

Rattenberg has a museum of Tyrolean art, which is housed in a 14th-century monastery , with a nice collection of art from the region. Amongst them Gothic and Baroque religious artifacts.

Mainly through the valley of the river Inn, and sometimes close to the mountains, we descend to Innsbruck.

INNSBRUCK
Ambras Castle
Ambras Castle
Airfield Sankt Johann
Goldenes Dachl
(Golden Roof)
Is the capital of Bundesland (federal province) Tirol, on the Inn at the mouth of the Sill River in the Eastern Alps. The name of the city comes from the combination of brücke, (German for "bridge") and the name of the local river, the Inn. First mentioned in 1180 as a small market town belonging to the Bavarian counts of Andech, it developed rapidly because of its strategic position at the junction of the great trade routes from Italy to Germany via the Brenner Pass and from Switzerland to Austria. Being an 800-year-old university town, it has numerous fine buildings dating from Austria's cultural Renaissance in the 16th-18th centuries, and a 12th-century castle, the Ambras Castle. The Habsburgs obviously counted themselves lucky that this city was within their realm and hold court in Innsbruck. Important artists followed their call.
Innsbruck was twice home of the Winter Olympics. For spectacular views over the town and southern Alps, take the funicular to Hungerburg and then the cable car to Hafelekar at 2334m.

the Ambras Castle
This beautifully preserved romantic Renaissance-style Castle includes Europe’s oldest collection of arts and armories, the Spanish Hall, and the Portrait Gallery, featuring some 250 works from the 14th and 15th century.
Archduke Ferdinand II (1529-1595) had the medieval Ambras castle converted into the present Renaissance castle to display his collections of world-wide fame.

Goldenes Dachl
Located at the north end of Herzog-Friedrich Strasse across from the Hebling House, the Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) stands with its richly decorated Gothic loggia, built over an oriel window and protected by a crocketed roof composed of fire-gilt copper tiles. The building was constructed between 1494-1496 as part of the Neuer Hof - a palace previously built by Duke Friedrich of Tirol. The two central panels depict Maximilian I with his two wives, Mary of Burgundy (sister of England's Henry VIII) and Bianca Maria Sforza. The frescos were done by Jörg Kölderer in 1500.


Now that we have successfully finished our todays tour, I suggest we meet each other in one of those cosey Innsbrucker Stuben for a few Obstlers. And for those who don't know: Obstler is a drink found in most German-speaking countries, and is made by distilling various fruits. It is usually very strong, and widely drunk as it is cheap and well flavoured.

    Notam:
  1. Innsbruck (LOWI) is known as a dangerous airport which requires a precise approach, beginning at Rattenberg DNB (RTT 303.0). I highly recommend that you get yourself an approach chart for LOWI.
    You can download an approach chart for LOWI from my web site: lowi.zip, 401 kb (click on link to start download).

    For those who don't have a chart, I'll try to describe the approach. Before reaching RTT, you should have tuned your Nav1 radio to 111.1 which is the frequency of the Innsbruck ILS (OEV) for runway 25. In fact it is not an ILS, but a LLZ/DME, but you won't notice the difference.
    At RTT you should have an altitude of 9,500 ft. As soon as you reach RTT turn to a heading of 211º but keep your altitude. Tune your ADF radio now to ABSAM NDB (AB 313.0) which is at 6 nm from OEV.

    Keep an eye on both your Nav1 or HSI and DME1. At about 22nm from OEV the needle will center. Change heading to 255º or use the autopilot's APPR function. Keep the needle centered as close as possible, because you only have small margins of error. At 17.2nm from OEV you are on the glidescope. Start descending or let the autopilot it do for you.

    Some reference points about your altitude during descend (check these!):


    And don't forget to reset your altimeter! Because between 8 and 6 nm from OEV there are only a 1,000 ft between you and the mountains below.

    As soon as you have a clear view on the runway and have cleared the last obstacles, you should disengage the autopilot and fly the last few miles manually for two reasons: the glidescope is bringing you in too high and the runway has an offset of 5º to the right.

  2. In the flight plan there are a few altitude changes to get you safe over the mountains. But keep your eyes open, some mountains are higher than the 12,000 ft set in the plan and you may come close to them. When the visibility is poor, increase your altitude to 13,000 ft.



Please note that these RTW Narratives are produced using materials from various sites, in print and on the web.  They are intended for the private use of the RTW Buzz pilots only and are not meant for public dissemination.



Additional Scenery:
Innsbruck Airport Scenery (LOWI2001v1a.ZIP, 846 kb)
You can download it from Stefan's Flightsim Site
(This scenery is not available at Flightsim or AVsim)


Flightplan & Narrative:
Jozef Kusters (RTW Pilot #038)


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