RTW Leg 65
Day.
WAMM-AYMH 889 nm.
Sorong-Mt.Hagen. West Irian. Mountainous Central Highlands of New Guinea.
ETE: 5 1/2 Hours.
Departure Terminal and Arrival Non-terminal.

NARRATIVE

You take leave of your party this morning.  An Air Force C-130 delivered heavy equipment and a contingent of Navy Seals.  This is now a big operation and you are now a mere observer getting in the way—so you bid your friends adieu.  Or, perhaps, until you meet again.

Do not let the Indonesian soldiers at the airport worry you.  They are there to insure that any hint of insurrection is dampened.  Over the last three years there has been occasional violence as the incipient revolution in Irian Jaya has flared up and died down and then arisen again.  The Jakarta government has revealed no sense of humor on the matter.  If you have any thoughts about the natural human rights of self-determination, you might consider keeping them to yourself.  Discretion, in this case, is the better part of valor.

	And the modern airport stands underemployed.
In Biak the international tourist trade  has disappeared.

Take off and fly over Manokwari and then Biak. The latter has a much superior infrastructure, compared with our last two stops, with the genuine international airport having runways for transcontinental flights. But the bloom has come off the development rose—largely a consequence of Indonesia’s current political troubles. Nowadays, the expensive tourist hotels are now largely empty.

New Guinea has ethnic diversity,  so to speak.

You should climb to 16000 feet and enjoy New Guinea—the world’s second largest island—and its majestic snowcapped peaks and glacial lakes. Much of the central highlands remains largely untouched by outside influences, with the local tribes retaining their customs and traditions. The different tribes have lived, for the most part, in isolation from even one another, resulting in an incredibly diverse mixture of cultures.  Nine hundred languages (one quarter of all human languages) are spoken on the island.  (These cultures, rich in both myths and magic, inspired famous anthropologists such as Margaret Mead and Bronislaw Manlinowski.)

A tree kangaroo.

Wildlife is abundant and diverse on the island and figures prominently in the daily lives of the people. Many types of plants and animals are recognized by the people in their religious beliefs and represented in their art forms. Cassowaries, crocodiles and pigs are the largest animals and are of great importance in the spiritual lives of the indigenous people. For example, the Iatmul tribe of  the Middle Sepik Region attributes creation to a mythical giant crocodile.  ( http://www.lostworldarts.com/new_page_2.htm  )  The fertile volcanic soils, ample rainfall, and a tropical climate have combined to create remarkably lush vegetation and enabled the evolution of seven-percent of the world's biodiversity in a country about the size of Spain.  In recent years, the region has spawned a twenty-first century industry, ecotourism:  (for example, see  http://ecovitality.org/pngtour.htm )

Crossing Wamena, the only town in the narrow  Baliem Valley, you can just imagine the Dani way of life.  No one knows their full history. The origin of their language is unknown and there is no written language. Sometimes termed a "stone-age" people, these warrior-farmers used wood, flint, and stone for their weapons and tools until the late 1960's when steel was introduced to the tribesmen. Although their history is unknown, the Dani believe that people and birds once lived together, unaware of their differences. Each Dani group still aligns itself with a particular species of bird, and the birds are also considered members of the group.

The men wear only traditional penis gourds, without which they would feel naked. The septum in the nose may be pierced, as decoration or a way to carry small objects. The women wear low-slung fiber skirts and net bags over the forehead, down the back. On any given day a Dani woman may have her net bag filled with sweet potatoes, wood, a child, or a piglet.  And sometimes several of the above.

The tribespeople still live in harmony with their age-old traditions.  Disputes are dealt with in tribal court, and carefully regulated mock wars are enacted in the surrounding countryside until those who have been wronged are appeased, according to the ruling of the rival court.  The Wusa, sacred stones that afford protection against evil spirits, abound throughout the valley in trees, caves, and Dani houses.  On a wedding, the Dani celebrate the party by performing the pig feast—perhaps the most important ceremony, relative to its culture, in the world.  One’s healthiness is counted on by how many pigs he owns. A man qualifies for marriage only when he can give a pig to his wife—who (in an earlier day, and less commonly now) may feed the pig babies with her breasts.  (For more, see below.  Also, see http://www.immersiatravel.com/ng2-2.html )

Dani men at pig feast.

The account below gives you some feel for Mt. Hagen, our destination in the rich Highlands of Papua New Guinea.

Flight planning and narrative by
Mike MacKuen
RTW Pilot #039

ADDITIONAL SCENERY AND ADD-ONS.

I would strongly recommend fellow Buzzer Jozef Kuster’s added NDB for Mt. Hagen airfield. (The default MS scenery does not have the NDB and you might want it to find this dirt runway.) The file is included in this download.

The dirt airstrip at Mt Hagen with mountains  in the background.

In addition, you might also want to "flatten" the area around the airfield. It seems artificially set into a small narrow valley which isn’t evident from our photo of the strip.

For example, you might put Jozef’s NDB scenery in the following folder:

C:\Scenery\Asia\PNG\Mt_Hagen_NDB\Scenery\NDB-mh.bgl

and then add the following lines in your "scenery.cfg" file (after making a backup so that you can return if something happens).

[Area.181]
Title=Mt_Hagen_NDB
Local=C:\Scenery\Asia\PNG\Mt_Hagen_NDB
Active=TRUE
Layer=181
Flatten.0=5350,S5 47.30,E144 9.69,S5 47.30,E144 21.71,S5 55, E144 24.61, S5 55, E144 9.69

where your scenery number should be sequential after the last one in your current scenery.cfg file. In my case, it is 181, following 180.

GENERAL INFORMATION ON MT. HAGEN
From the Rotary Club of Mt. Hagen (  http://www.acithn.uq.edu.au/rhap/general_information_on_mt_hagen.htm )

Modernity in Mt. Hagen

Mount Hagen is Papua New Guinea’s third city with a population of approximately 35,000 although the numbers usually swells to nearer 100,000 towards the end of each week as people living in the more rural areas descend on their commercial centre. It is difficult to estimate the number of non-national (or "expat." as they are colloquially known) residents but it is probably in the region of 700 including those involved in commerce, agriculture and other services, including the churches.

The city is located at the western end of the very beautiful and fertile Waghi Valley that nestles at over 5,500 feet above sea level with mountain ranges on either side that range in height between 7,000 and 14,000 feet.

The commercial area of the city provides a reasonable range of services including supermarkets, banks, pharmacies, hairdressers, business and stationery supplies, a post office, government offices and a range of second hand clothing and variety stores. Food sold by the supermarkets include some familiar brands such as "Tesco" for our British friends.

There is one multi-storey building (with a lift) but most other buildings are timber frame and limited to 2 storeys. The town is generally clean but it is always filled with people walking, sitting, chatting and watching. Littering will cost offenders K20.00 if spotted by a Health Inspector, so be careful. People far out number vehicles and they generally assume their right-of-way, earned by their sheer numbers.

Fast food bars are plentiful but the food is not generally to the taste of people from developed countries. There are a number of Motels with fair to good dining rooms and the Mount Hagen Club serves excellent meals for members.

THE ECONOMY

Evidence of rich agricultural output

Whilst fresh fruit and vegetables are inexpensive and meat is cheap by European standards and reasonable by Australian standards, grocery lines generally considered essential by people from developed countries are expensive and often difficult to find.

There are 4 banks in the city and all offer international banking services but customers frequently need to be patient. International credit cards can be used at the banks and some "tourist" facilities but they are not generally accepted for commercial trading. The 4 banks can provide EFTPOS cards for their account holders and these can be used in many stores. Most purchasing requires cash, EFTPOS or cheques (with prior arrangements). Credit facilities at stores and other businesses are not usually available in our cash economy.

THE WEATHER

In a word, "perfect". Because of our altitude and proximity to the equator (6deg south) our normal day time temperature is 26degC with 28degC being a very hot day and 24degC being very cold. Night time temperatures range between 12degC and 18degC with 16degC being the norm. During the wet season (October to May) it rains heavily most afternoons but the temperature remains quite pleasant. Despite the frequent rain, humidity is relatively low and pleasant. During the dry season (June to September) it rains 2 or 3 times a week - often during the night.

SOCIAL ACTIVITIES

The Western Highlands Province is "Dry". Alcohol is only available at a limited number of licensed premises and must be consumed on the premises where it is purchased. Alcohol must not be brought into the Province as there are stiff penalties and baggage is inspected at entry points both at the airport and at road blocks. [Dan, it seems that the authorities are on the lookout for Canadians bearing screech.] Nevertheless, the Mount Hagen Club, Golf Club, Bowling Club and a number of other licensed premises offer excellent to good "pub" facilities.

SECURITY

As might be expected in any community where there are vast differences between the "haves" and the "have nots" security can be a problem. Housing is generally secure and with a sensible and sensitive attitude personal security can be maintained. Conservative dress, not carrying bags etc that can be easily snatched, not being overtly wealthy or showy, not walking after dark, are the sort of actions that lead to security in any socially and economically disadvantaged environment - whether in New York, London, Sydney or Mount Hagen. Most organisations and housing areas employ security staff to safeguard their clients or residents.

TRANSPORT

Passenger Terminal at Mt. Hagen

There are no Taxis in town but there is a range of hire car companies including the major internationals. Most public transport is by PMV’s (Public Motor Vehicles) which range from open trucks, with or without seats, to quite respectable mini buses.  PMV fares are very modest but the services are only used by the more adventurous non-national or tourist.  They are generally safe but are often quite uncomfortable and rarely work to any fixed schedule.  Some organisations such as business houses and the Hospital provide some transport services for their staff.

Motor vehicles are very expensive and used cars are usually past their "use by date".  It would be very unwise to consider purchasing a vehicle for less than K8,000 and only then after inspection by a reputable mechanic.

HEALTH SERVICES

The city is serviced by a number of private general medical practitioners, 3 pharmacies, a dentist and the Hospital. Rural communities around Mount Hagen are serviced by Government and Church operated Health Centres and district hospitals.  There is no ambulance service and no ancillary health service other than special services such as STD clinics operated by the Government.

It is highly recommended that non-national people have an insurance policy that will provide air evacuation to Australia and medical services in that country.  Patients will be safely stabilised at the Hospital but the range of services is limited so that many services expected by people from developed countries are not available in PNG.

ADVENTURING IN PAPUA NEW GUINEA
  ( http://www.peachin.com/mar_nlt.htm )

We stayed at the luxurious Ambua Lodge. Along the dirt road, 45- minutes from the airport, we observed other Huli traditions. Pigs were staked along the road during a bride-price negotiation. The ceremony can take several hours or days depending on the value of the bride, her age and the wealth of her family. Wealth is measured by the number of pigs owned by the family. The pig is so revered in Papua, its image is on the $10 dollar kina.

Another day, we passed a man preparing to take a painted skull of his father into his hut. Papua New Guinea is a misogynous society. Deceased women are buried when they die, while men rest above the ground for five years. When the skin has dried and dropped from the bones, the skull is painted, and placed in the hut of the son.

We had been told that two weeks prior to our arrival, a warrior named Andrew had been killed. Payback or another battle was expected in the next several days. The Ambua Lodge is located between two warring Huli clans, the Jawali who lived in the valley, and the Huwale Pu who lived in the highlands.

At the crack of dawn, I awoke to the cry of a warrior in the valley. Was he calling his pigs or was this a battle cry? We continued our touring; visiting the village of Wapia where we observed a "sing-sing." In Boronapa village, the Huli demonstrated the making of fire by rubbing 2 pieces of cane with a cord. After an impressive bow and arrow shooting demonstration, we visited the women's side of the village to see the huts of pigs.

Many times pigs share the women’s hut. Men and women do not sleep together, they have sex in the garden for the purpose of reproduction. The role of a women is to tend gardens, raise children, and carry burden in their bilums. Men do the hunting and cooking. Men believe that women are capable of casting spells and they sometimes carry evil spirits. They are especially afraid of seeing women during menstrual cycles, so during this period, women stay in a separate hut. ...

Which medical school, you ask?

The opportunity to meet with Pajia, a witchdoctor, was an experience shared by only a few visitors. Pajia hid from missionaries for 20 years to avoid conversion from his religious practices. When we saw him, he had not received foreign visitors for three years. With the help of an interpreter, Pajia showed us how he made knives from bamboo. He demonstrated his use of axes, bows and arrows. He took us to his magic garden where he showed us his medicinal powers. Rubbing Jeffrey's hands with a nettle leaf, he created a painful burning sensation. He then rubbed Jeffrey's hand with a ginger leaf. The pain subsided in about 10 minutes.

The nettle leaf is used prior to the scarification initiation ritual to prepare the men for the pain they will endure during the ceremony. A compound mixture of clay, burnt lime and tigaso tree oil is put into self induced wounds to create permanent scars that look like tattooing.

Pajia also took us to his graveyard. His demeanor showed great respect, his eyes were cast downward as he showed us the skull of his father. We walked through the graveyard to his "magic place," the burial site of his witch doctor ancestors. Located in a sexually symbolic, "Georgia O'Keefe-ish" rock outcropping, were the painted skulls of his male ancestors dating back nine generations. Pajia's magic stones were also resting in this outcropping ...

OUR TREK AMONGST DANI VILLAGES IN THE BALIEM VALLEY
 (For a personal portrait of  Dali life and a Pig Feast, go to:  http://www-ah.wbmt.tudelft.nl/~jerry/jw2/IrianJaya/Baliem.html  Highly recommended.)

In July 1995 we made a 6-day guided trek amongst some Dani villages near Wamena in the Baliem Valley in Irian Jaya, Indonesia. The Dani are one of the many Papuan tribes living in Irian Jaya (former Dutch New Guinea). Our group consisted of our Sulawesi guide Pini, four porters (Milas, Obenius, Harry and Ben), a cook named Elly and ourselves.  Every day we hiked for several hours through the steep mountains to reach another village. We had to cross several (liana) bridges as well as the locally notorious suspension bridge high over the wide Baliem River. The absolute highlight of the trek was a 'attack' by Dani warriors, followed by an extensive traditional 'pig feast', in which the whole village of Ibiroma participated. We also unintentionally witnessed an arson in the village of Tangma, which appeared to be part of an adultery argument. ...

Dani village.	Dani kids' smiles.
Portrait of a man at a pig feast.	Woman missing two fingers.

About the missing fingers:  It is a Dani custom for women to amputate one or two joints of their fingers when a close relative dies. The joints are burnt together with the body of the deceased. According to Pini the woman carries out the amputation herself: she ties the joint off with a piece of rope. She hits it then with a stone in order to make it numb and then chops it off. We thought that this custom would be abandoned by now, but we saw also young women with missing joints.